The Burberry Check is Back
Is Burberry back in business thanks to the return of the iconic check?
In the volatile world of luxury fashion, there is a fine line between innovation and identity crisis. For the better part of two years, Burberry found itself walking that tightrope – and nearly falling off.
As London Fashion Week 2026 comes to a close, the message from the runway (and the stock market) is clear – brand heritage isn’t a shackle, it’s a superpower.
The Check-Less Experiment
When Daniel Lee took the creative helm in 2022, he arrived with a reputation for radical reinvention. In an attempt to modernise the brand, he made a daring, and ultimately costly choice: he sidelined the iconic Burberry check.
According to data from Data But Make It Fashion, Lee’s Spring 2024 collection featured the signature pattern in under 10% of the looks. The result? Both consumers and investors checked out. Sales slumped, and Burberry was even relegated from the FTSE 100 in late 2024 as its market value plummeted. The relegation ended a 15-year tenure among London’s top-tier companies. The move followed a 50%+ share price drop caused by a luxury sector slump and weak sales.
The Great Re-Embrace
Fashion is often about looking forward, but Burberry’s recovery began when they started looking back. The data tells the story of a strategic u-turn.
- Spring 2024: <10% check pattern on the runway.
- Following Season: 38% check pattern.
- AW25/26: 53%+ check pattern.
By the time the Autumn/Winter 2026 show closed London Fashion Week this month, the check was back. From the plum leather aviators worn by Romeo Beckham to the heavy navy furs donned by Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, the fashion world felt the collection was ‘rooted in British fashion codes’ once again.
What the Analysts and Markets Are Saying
The Burberry Forward strategy, led by CEO Joshua Schulman, is finally showing up in the green. After a period of hyper-volatility, the stock has seen a significant rebound.
The Current Sentiment
As of late February 2026, Burberry’s share price has stabilised significantly from its 2024 lows. Analysts at firms like RBC and Citigroup have moved toward Outperform and Buy ratings, with price targets shifting upward into the 1,400p–1,590p range.
Most analysts agree that Burberry has successfully stopped the bleeding. By returning to its roots – specifically heritage outerwear and scarves – the brand has seen a 2-3% growth in comparable store sales, a massive win after seven consecutive quarters of decline.
The Schulman Effect
Market experts credit the new leadership for lowering the entry price points on iconic items (like the scarf bar rollout) and shifting away from the ultra-luxury price hikes that alienated the aspirational middle-class shopper.
Why History is the Secret to Success in 2026
Is 2026 the big fashion brand comeback era? It certainly feels like it. After years of quiet luxury and logomania battling for dominance, we are entering a period of brand realism.
History helps luxury brands for three reasons:
Trust in Volatility
In an uncertain economy, consumers don’t want to gamble on a trend. They want to invest in a legacy. A Burberry trench coat from 2026 looks just as good as one from 1986.
Emotional Anchoring
Heritage brands like Burberry (founded in 1856) carry a cultural shorthand. The check pattern is a symbol of Britishness, grit and class.
Sustainable Value
Resale markets favour heritage. Buyers know that a brand which respects its history will maintain its value over time.
The Verdict
It may be too early to declare a total victory, but the cool Britannia energy at 1 Billingsgate Walk suggests Burberry has found its soul again. By doubling down on what they do best – outerwear, functionality and that unmistakable check – Daniel Lee and Joshua Schulman are proving that in fashion, sometimes the most innovative thing you can do is be yourself.
The lesson for every brand in 2026? Innovation is great, but heritage is forever.
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If you enjoy my blogs, you might be curious about my background. I’ve worked in PR and Marketing since 1993. Later, in 1999, I founded a full-service agency and spent the next 24 years successfully growing it. During that time, I had the privilege of partnering with some of the biggest blue-chip brands in the UK and learned extensively from the exceptional marketing professionals I met along the way. Then, in 2023, the management team I built successfully acquired my agency, 8848, setting me free to pursue new passions.
For the last five years, my love of marketing and communications powered our own family venture: a retreat of holiday cottages in the Peak District. I love making brands look and work better, and consequently, in just a few short years, we drove significant growth. In fact, thanks to my focus on SEO, we consistently ranked on page one for most key regional search terms, making 2025 our busiest year yet. We sold our venture in 2026, achieving a great return on investment.
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